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Sights and sounds of Antarctica

March 1, 2008

by Christine C. Lengvari

Christine C. Lengvari, L BSc 72, recounts her remarkable experiences from the Concordia University Alumni Association’s Expedition to Antarctica, the first Alumni Travel Program trip.

Travelling with university alumni from across North America on the Expedition to Antarctica February 1 to 16, 2008, was a dream come true.

Our group of about 200 set sail aboard the deluxe French ship M.S. Le Diamant. Captain Etienne Garcia’s announcements always began with "Dear passengers," and we felt very special indeed.

Our journey was blessed with exceptional weather and, as a result, we experienced rare vistas. Our 12-day trip was flexible enough to accommodate unplanned detours, such as the one we took for a medical emergency to King George Island, the northernmost island in the South Shetlands. This extra, 10-hour round trip allowed us to travel past some beautiful terrain that we would typically not have seen.

Christine Lengvari

On our first night, we entered the infamous Drake Passage, which lived up to its reputation. Our cabins creaked and groaned, the ship rocked and rolled, and some passengers were tossed around in their beds. Many, even experienced sailors, got seasick. Fortunately, I took the necessary precautions and avoided the mal de mer . It turned out that we had a relatively easy crossing, with swells of only four to five metres. During last year’s return voyage, the waves broke over one of the pool decks, and the sailors literally had to batten down the hatches.

Our itinerary included three continental landings and visits to the Argentinian research station, Esperanza, and British research station and museum, Port Lockroy. We also stopped at Aitcho Island and Half Moon Island, witnessed icebergs calving in Paradise Bay, saw the deserted and ruined whaling station on Deception Island, and enjoyed a surprise cruise in Wilhelmina Bay and landing at Cape Horn for Valentine’s Day.

Alas, we encountered no emperor penguins, since they nest much further south. But we did visit colonies of brush-tailed penguins, gentoo, Adélie and chinstrap. Our timing was impeccable because the chicks had hatched and we observed the parents caring for and feeding their young.

While the chicks are cute, colonies are noisy and the guano has a particularly pungent aroma (read: stench). It turned out that Captain Garcia is a whale aficionado and therefore offered us several whale-watching opportunities, which included encounters with humpbacks and one with a breaching dwarf minke whale in the English Passage. We were especially fascinated by a group of orcas that passed right under the bow. With the help of our naturalists, we also spotted many bird and seal species.

Another highlight was at Pendulum Cove on Deception Island, where the intrepid, present company included, took part in an arctic swim in so-called geothermal waters. It was a challenging and bracing experience, and I have the picture to prove it!

This was truly the voyage of a lifetime, and I feel privileged that I was able to set foot on the Blue Continent.

This article orignally appeared in the Spring 2008 issue of the Concordia University Magazine.

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